Tim and I made s'mores last month while staying in a cabin at Kalaloch Lodge, on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington state. Some favorite treats from my childhood have lost their gusto over the years but devouring these s'mores was just as exciting and awe-inspiring as ever. The nagging anticipation as you roast the marshmallow(s): do you want it golden or charred crisp? Does your stick bend at an angle preventing you from an all-over glow? Can you possibly wait it out or do you just dive it right into the flames? A gentle touch is required to slowly remove the puff from your roasting stick, artfully positioning it on the graham cracker. Place the chocolate on top of the mallowy hill where it immediately begins to melt and loosen. Top it off with the graham cracker half and it is the art of the bite that follows--protecting the crumbs that gather at your lips from falling to your lap, monitoring the squeeze of marshmallow oozing out from all sides. Warmth, crunch and that blessed combination of flavors. 'Tis the season.